Today was our day off from classes so we decided to take a tour of the Iximche (corn-tree in Kaqchikel) ruins. They were built in the 1500s by the Kaqchikel Maya but destroyed within 20 years by the Spanish. However, you are still able to see the outline of the pyramids, the traditional ball game court and the irrigation system. I personally have a hard time envisioning what the town actually looked like just from the skeleton but I still appreciate the history and significance of the site. The Maya continue to make pilgrimages to the Iximche ruins for rituals or healings and today we were able to observe two very important and unique ceremonies. On one side of the pyramid we saw a huge celebration ceremony that included a fire, dancing, music, incense, and the slaughtering of a chicken to feed the guests. I took a few pictures from a distance but they do NOT do justice to the incredible experience. I felt like I was watching something out of a movie because it was so surreal to actually be in the presence of shamans practicing their very ancient traditions.

On the other side of the pyramid there was a very different ceremony taking place. We first noticed a baby swaddled in the moms arms crying the cry that means pain. Next to them was a fire and a curandara (healer) kneeling on the ground with burning incense, blue, red and yellow candles, as well as eggs and alcohol. I moved closer to get a better view, still keeping a respectful distance, just in time to see the curandera cleanse the beak of the chicken with liquor and then slice the neck of the chicken with a knife. She was speaking in prayer as she poured the chicken blood over the fire. She continued to pray and shake the chicken upside down as the mom held the baby in her arms a safe distance from the fire.

As all of this was happening, I noticed two little kids sitting off to the side so I went over to them to see if I could get a better understanding of what was going on. The 6 year old little girl said “we were 5 hermanos and now we are 3 and our baby brother is sick.” Many Maya believe that illness occurs when energies are imbalanced or when someone deserves punishment (like karma). In this case, the curandera was trying to rid the child of Mal Ojo or the evil curse so he could get better and the family wouldn’t have to suffer the loss of a third child. I was going to ask the little girl some more questions but she was more interested in hearing how I got to Guatemala, if I came in a plane, if there were mountains in the states and if I was going to stay in Guatemala. Our question exchange reminded me that we are all curious to understand the world outside our own and no matter how different our spiritual worlds may be, we all suffer when loved ones are ill. I could feel the family’s pain and hope they don’t have to endure the loss or a third child.

After our ruins tour we went back to explore more of Antigua and to shop a bit at the local market. The textiles here are so spectacular I just want to take a trunk full of things home with me.  After our market adventure we were all exhausted from bargaining so we went and enjoyed a beer on the rooftop and rested before our jam packed chicken bus ride home.

Okay, that’s all for now. There are three flies buzzing around me and I can’t handle having one more annoyance while I try to sleep. The roosters, dogs, parrots, and neighbors are enough!

Pictures will come later- internet is too slow to upload.